Dreamer Shawl
A free crochet shawl pattern for a delicate chunky triangle scarf
It's Britt's Knits, a division of Brittique
#DreamerShawl
This free crochet pattern is for the Dreamer Shawl. If you like vintage modern crochet shawl patterns, you've come to the right place! By continuing with this crochet shawl pattern, you agree not to share this crochet pattern or parts of the design. You may sell the finished crochet shawls, but must credit Brittique and link to www.BuyBrittique.com.
Please feel free to contact me here with any questions or comments. I plan on offering many free crochet patterns and hope to supplement part of the cost through affiliate links. More info here.
I would love to see photos of your unique crochet shawl! Tag @BuyBrittique on Instagram and Facebook, and use hashtag #DreamerShawl.
I hope you have fun with this crochet wrap pattern, and enjoy the vintage modern look of this delicate but chunky crochet shawl.
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Materials/tools used:
Hook-I/9-5.50mm- Personally I like smooth metal hook with a slightly rounded point, like Boye, but it's totally personal preference.
Lion Brand Mandala yarn in Sphinx (weight 3) I've also worked the pattern using scrap yarn, so you'll see photos of both versions. You can also see how it looks in other yarns by viewing photos from my testers here, or some of the photos are below, as well.
Tapestry Needle for weaving in ends
Notes:
The crochet scarf pattern is written in U.S. terms. Stitch counts include beginning/turning chains, and only include stitches on one side. The middle point where the sides meet are indicated (like this) to make it easier to read. Example- (2dc, ch1, 2dc)
Always turn work at the end of each row. The stitch count includes stitches made in center, but does not include the center chain. My photos will have white yarn for all even numbered rows
The ad-free, photo condensed version can be purchased here. I realize some people are more comfortable purchasing from sites they're familiar with. Therefor, I do have this available on Etsy here, but due to the difference in fees, it does cost less through my site. I have an SSL certificate and you'll notice the web address starts with HTTPS, meaning any data entered is encrypted and authenticated, hence, secured.
Stitches/abbreviations
Ch- chain
dc- double crochet
sc- single crochet
hdc- half double crochet
st- stitch
sk- skip
popcorn
fpdc
puff stitch
fpsc
1. Ch3, 3dc in 3rd ch, ch1, 4dc, turn (4 st on each side)
2. Ch3, 2dc in 1st st, ch1, sk 1, dc, ch1, sk 1, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) all in open chain sp, ch1, sk 1, dc, ch1, sk 1, 3dc (8st each side, including ch spaces)
3. Ch3, 2dc in 1st st, dc in next, ch1, skip 1, dc, ch1, skip 1, dc, ch1, skip 2, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) all in open ch sp, ch1, skip 2, dc, ch1, skip 1 dc, ch1 skip 1, dc, 3dc in last st (11st each side)
4. Ch2, 2hdc in 1st st, hdc in each ch and dc of previous row, skipping last dc (2dc, ch1, 2dc) skipping the 1st st, hdc in each ch and dc, 3hdc in last st. There should be 12hdcs and 2 dcs on each side (14)
5. Ch3, 2dc in 1st, [sk1, v stitch (dc, ch1, dc)]6x, (2dc, ch1 2dc in center chain) (v st, sk 1)6x, 3dc in last st (23 st)
6. Ch3, 2 dc in same, 5dc between the 2nd and 3rd dc of previous row. (sc in the V opening of previous row, 5dc in next V opening) 3x, (2dc, ch1 2dc) in center ch. (5dc in v, sc in next v)3x. sk 2 stitches, 5dc between the dcs, 3dc in last st. (28)
7. (Black in photo) Ch3, 2dc in same, (ch3, sk3, dc into each of the next 3 stitches)4x, ch3, sk3,(2dc, ch1, 2dc), (ch3, sk3, dc 3)4x, ch3, sk3, 3dc in last st (32)
8. (White) Ch1, sc, fpdc, (dc into each of the 3 dc from row 6. fpdc in each of the 3 stitches of row 7)4x, dc into each of the 3 dc of row 6, fpdc in the next 2, (2dc, ch1, 2dc), fpdc 2, (3dc, 3fpdc)4x, 3dc, fpdc, sc, sc (34)
9. (Purple) Ch3. dc 2 in same. Leave the chain of row 7 in front, unworked. dc in each of next 5 stitches of row 8, (fpdc around each of the next 3 stitches. They should have a fpdc in each from round 8. Work around the stitches of both rows. dc into each of the next 3 st of row 8)4x, fpdc, fpdc, sc, sc, (2sc ch1, 2sc), sc, sc, fpdc 2, (dc 3x, fpdc around both rows 3x)4x, dc 5x, 3dc in last st. (38)
10. Ch3, 4dc in same, (sk1, dc, sk1, dc, sk1, 5dc)5x, sk1, dc, sk1, dc, sk1, dc, (2sc, ch1, 2sc), (dc, sk1)3x, (5dc, sk1, dc, sk1, dc, sk1)5x, 5dc in last (45)
11. Ch3, 2 dc in same, (ch1, sk1, dc)21x, ch1, (2dc, ch1, 2dc), (ch1, sk1, dc)21x, ch1 3dc in last st.(48)
12. Ch3, dc in same, [popcorn into dc (pushing popcorn away from you) then ch1]23x. Ch1 from popcorn stitch plus 1 chain = 2 total chains. (2dc, ch1, 2dc) (ch1, popcorn)23x, 2dc in last st(50)
13. Ch3, 2dc in the same stitch. We are now working in the ch spaces between the popcorns 2dc
(1dc, 2dc, 2dc)7x, dc, 2dc, dc in the dc, (2dc, ch1, 2dc), sk1, dc in the dc, 2dc in ch sp, (dc, 2dc, 2dc)7x, dc, 2dc, 3dc in last (46)
14. Ch3, 2dc in same. dc in space between each dc. (44). (2dc, ch1, 2dc) dc 44, dc3 in last st. (49)
15. (beige) Ch3, dc in same, (ch1, sk2, 3dc in next)15x, ch1 sk2, dc, (2dc, ch1, 2dc), dc, (sk2, dc3, ch1)15x, sk2, 2dc in last st. (66)
16. (white) Ch2, hdc in same st, hdc, [(ch1, sk1, hdc 3)16x hdcs are going on top of the dcs from row 14],(2hdc, ch1, 2hdc), (hdc 3, ch1, sk1)16x, ch1, hdc, 2hdc in last st. (69)
17. (blue) Ch3, dc in same sp, (ch3, sc in ch sp between hdcs of previous row)17x, ch1, (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch1, (sc, ch3)17, 2dc in last st. (73)
18. (white shells) Ch3, dc in same sp,(7dc in ch3 sp, sc in next ch sp)9x, sk2, (2dc, ch1, 2dc), sk2, (sc, 7dc)9x, sk1, 2dc in last st. (76)
19. (Black)Ch3, dc in same sp, (ch7, sc in the 4th (middle) of 7)9x, ch7, sc in 1st dc, sk1, (2dc, ch1 2dc), sk1, sc in 2nd dc, (ch7, sc in middle sc)9x, ch7, sk4, 2dc in last stitch (84)
20. The photo above and to the left shows how you will see your work while doing row 20. The right one shows how it should look when the popcorns of row 12 are facing you (right side). (White puffs) Ch1 in 1st st itch of row 19, sc in same, skip the dc of round 19. puff st in row 18 between the 2dc and the 7dc, ch3, fpsc in the sc of row 19, ch3, (puff st in the sc between the 7dcs, ch3, fpsc, ch3)8x, puff stitch ch3, fpsc, sc, sc, (2sc, ch1, 2sc), sc, sc, (fpsc, ch3, puff, ch3)9x, fpsc, ch3, puff, sk1, 2sc in last stitch of row 19. (64st)
21. (Purple) We're only working in round 20- don't touch round 19. Ch1, sc in next st, (ch5, fpsc around puff from round 20, ch5, bpsc around the fpsc of round 20)9x, ch5, fpsc around puff, ch5, sc 5x, (2sc, ch1, 2sc), sc 5x, (ch5, fpsc, ch5, bpsc)9x, ch5, fpsc, ch5, sc, sc in last. (128st)
22. (White over black) Ch1 in row 21, sc in next stitch of round 21, (ch3, sc7 in the chain stitches of row 19)10x, ch3, sc 5x, (2dc, ch1, 2dc), sc 5x, (ch3, 7sc)10x, ch3, sc in each of the 2 last stitches from round 21. (112st)
23. (Beige) Ch3, 3dc same, ch2, make 1sc that goes around both rows 21 and 22 (shown in purple and white). ch5. sc in 4th (middle) st of shell from row22 (shown in white). Ch5, (2sc in chain space of row 21 (purple), 2sc in next chain sp of row 21. This creates the "cinched" look shown above the black. These sc's should be centered between the puff stitches. ch 5. Continue in this manner (sc in 4th st of shell, ch5, 2sc in ch, 2sc in ch, ch5) 8 more tomes. (9 total) ch5, make 2 sc's that each go around both rows 21 and 22. sk2 to sc in the 3rd st of row 22. ch2, sk, sc, ch 2, sk 2, (2dc, ch1, 2dc). (ch2, sk2, sc)2x, sk2, (2sc into chain sp of rows 20 and 21, (ch5, sc in 4th st of shell from row 22, ch5, 2sc in ch sp, 2sc in ch sp)9x, ch5, sc in 4th st, ch5, 1 sc that goes around both rows 21 and 22. ch2, 4dc in last.
24. (White) We're just working into row 23 the whole time. Ch3, dc same, dc, dc, dc in ch sp. (4dc in chains above heart, ch1 above the puff, 4dc into 2nd part of heart)10x. sk2, dc in sc, sk1, dc in ch sp, sk1, 2dc, sk2, (2sc, ch1, 2sc) sk2, 2dc in ch sp, (sk1, dc in ch sp)2x sk2, (4dc, ch1, 4dc)10x, dc in ch sp, dc, dc, 2 dc in last st. (102st)
25. Ch1, sc in same, sc 4x, ONE bpdc around BOTH of the stitches from r23. (we'll be cinching the hearts together) sc 4 in row 24, skip the ch space, sc 4 more. bpdc in row 23. (8sc, skipping ch sp, bpdc) 8 more times. sc 4, sk ch sp, sc 10, (2sc, ch1, sc2), sc 10, (bpdc, 8sc, skipping ch sp)9x, sc 4x, 2sc in last. (103st)
26. Ch2, fphdc in each. (Fphdc, 2hdc, ch1, 2hdc, fphdc), fphdc in each, fphdc and hdc in last st. (107st)
27. Ch3, 1dc in same, (dc, ch1, sk1) across. Omit ch1 before center stitches. (2dc, ch1, 2dc), (dc, ch1, sk1) 51x, dc, 2dc in last. (109st)
28. Ch1, sc in same, sc in each dc and ch sp. (2sc, ch1, 2sc) sc in each stitch and space, 2sc in last stitch. (111st)
29. (Purple) Ch3, dc in same, ch1, sk1, (dc, ch1, dc in same stitch, sk1)54x (2dc, ch1, 2dc) ch1, sk1, (dc, ch1, dc in same, sk1)54x, ch1, 2dc in last (167st)
30. (white between the purple and blue rows) Ch3, 2dc in same, 3dc in the opening of each v (54), (3dc, ch1, 3dc), 3dc 54x, 3dc in last st. (168st) You'll notice an odd shape as this row starts bunching, but the next row eliminates that.
31. (Blue) Ch3, dc in same st, dc, dc, 1fpdc that goes around all the dc stitches from row 30. (reach hook behind the top of the next 3dc's that are in the v stitch of row 29 , pretending they are one stitch This will form a popcorn/cluster type stitch that will puff toward you.) (1dc in each of the next 3, 1 fpdc 1 time across all 3 of the next)27x, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) (fpdc around all 3, dc 3)28x, adding an additional dc into the last stitch. (115st)
32. Ch3, 3dc in same, skip the 3dc, (sc into the fpdc of previous row. skip 3dc, 7dc into fpdc of previous row.)13x, (2sc, ch1, 2sc) (7dc, 1sc)14x, 4dc in last st. (118st)
33. Ch3, 2dc in same, dc in each of the next 3, ch1, sk1, (dc into each of the 7 dcs, ch1, sk the sc)13x, dc into the next 9, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) dc 9x, (ch1, sk1, dc 7)13xch1, sk1, dc 3, 3dc in last st. (122st)
34. Ch3, 2dc in same, dc in each of the next 5. pulling row 33 toward you, long triple crochet into the sc of row 32. (Dc in each of the next 7, tr in sc)13x, dc 11x, (2dc, ch1, 2dc), dc 11x, (tr, dc 7x)13x, tr, dc 5x, 3dc in last st. (126st)
35. Ch3, 2dc in same. dc, (ch1, sk1, dc)62x- you should be skipping over each tr from previous row. (2dc, ch1, 2dc) (dc, ch1, sk1)62x, dc, 3dc in last. (130st)
36. ch1, sc in same, sc, sc, (2sc in ch sp)62x, sc 3x, (2sc, ch1, 2sc), sc 3x, (2sc)62x, sc 2x, 2sc in last st. (133st)
37. ch3, dc in same. ch2, sk1, puff stitch, ch1 (the ch1 from the puff stitch itself does not count, so there would be 2 chains actually made). (sk1, puff st, ch1)64x, sk2, (3dc, ch1, 3dc), ch1, sk2, (puff st, ch1, sk1)65x, add one more chain, then 2dc in last st. (137st)
**For a longer shawl, you can start at the beginning and repeat each row again. I'm working on getting the stitch counts for that.
38. With right side facing, (popcorns from row 12 facing up, triangle facing like an ice cream cone), ch1 and sc in first stitch. We are now working across the flat side (the top of the ice cream cone). sc all the way across. Approx 60-75st to the popcorns of row 12, and approx 25-40st to the center. It's ok if these numbers vary- depending on your yarn, tension, and desired look. More stitches will give a more rippled look. 2sc in last st.
39. Keep your work facing the same way. ch1 and single crochet backwards once in each single crochet across row 38.
I'd love to see your unique crochet wrap photos! Be sure to tag me so I see them! @BuyBrittique #DreamerShawl
I hope you love the free crochet shawl shawl pattern and the delicate chunky look of the crochet wrap. If you do, check out my other free patterns here, and subscribe below for updates when new patterns are posted.